“Just a note on how Sterling Irons one length has changed my game. After having them in my bag for less than two months, I’m swinging easier with greater results. I just added the 5 iron and lob wedge. Golf is fun again and I can’t wait to see the improvement from round to round. Thanks!!”
If you’re having an issue of coming up short with your irons on your approaches with your single length irons or your regular irons, we’ve got a few things to touch on here that can hopefully help eliminate that problem for you and you can be getting the ball all the way to the flag more often and saving yourself less bogeys and giving yourself more birdies and just shooting a lower score.
So, the first thing I would say or advise you of is to play for your average and not your best shot, So, with a pro who hits their eight-iron maybe 164 yards or something, something like that, it’s going to be a little bit more or less depending on the pro, but let’s say 165, they hit their eight-iron, now, pros are really good ball strikers in general. They’re not going to always hit the sweet spot, but they’re going to have a really tight ball striking dispersion right around the center of the clubface. It’s much more so than amateurs. So, 8/10 times, their irons, let’s say an eight-iron, for example, go in the 165 yards. If they strike a little bit better, maybe it’ll go 170, low 170s if they miss a little bit, maybe low 160s, high 150s. So, there’s going to be a dispersion there. Now, with the average amateur, let’s say, who hits an eight-iron on average 130 yards, maybe you can hit the eight-iron 135 or 140, but typically, amateur players are not as good ball strikers as pros which obviously makes sense, so when you miss the sweet spot like that or hit it a little bit more around the face, you’re going to lose ball speed and lose some distance. So, even though you can hit, maybe hit an eight-iron 135 or maybe 140, realistically, not all the strikes are going to be perfect. Sometimes, they’re going to go 125. Sometimes, they’re going to go 120, and then the average ends up being 130, so when you get a shot and you’re at 135, 140 yards, and like, oh, I can’t hit my eight-iron there, yes, you can, but on these type of shots, you want to play for the average, your average dispersion and not your best shot, so I think that’s the main thing to say there, is just aim your dispersion and understand that you’re hitting into an area, if you hit 10 balls, and aim that area, that dispersion, kind of like a shot gun where it’s not all going to be precisely in the same distance. There’s going to be a little spray, so aim your spray and adjust accordingly like that. So, that’s the first thing I would say.
The second thing, us as males in particular, we can have some issues with our ego. So, this kind of plays into the same thing again where you’re playing for your average and not your best. We may feel strong, we may feel athletic, we may feel capable, we may have had success in other sports; maybe you played some high-level sports and other sports, and yes, we may be able to hit that eight-iron 135, 140 yards, but if the average, again, is 130, it takes a little bit of an ego check to – it can take a little bit of an ego check. So, there’s a little bit of a mental component that you may have to deal with particularly as men, so just checking your ego and again, this plays back into playing for your average shotgun spray dispersion versus the best of what you absolutely can hit it, so you’re playing for averages here again. So, that’s the second thing is just you may have to battle your ego a little bit and say like – and suck it up a little bit and hit a little bit of extra club even though you can hit it there with that club, so that’s the next thing I would say.
And then, the last thing I wanted to comment on here is that on-course distances can be a little bit less than what you maybe measure on the range or on a launch monitor indoors, so say you go do your distances check on the trackman or flight scope, or foresight or just some kind of a launch monitor indoors or at the driving range, you get all your averages. Yes, that’s great, my average is, I know what they are, and then you go out on the course and you’re still coming up a little bit short, well, on the course, you’re not dealing with perfectly flat lies, no wind, hitting the same shot time after time, after time, like when you’re maybe doing distance testing on the range or indoors, or a launch monitor, so the conditions, the lab conditions aren’t the same; they’re a little bit more volatile than the real-life conditions. So, realistically, you’re probably on the course going to be averaging less than you will when you’re testing on a range in more perfect settings, and I first found out about this when I used a – or really became apparent when I started using those little GPS things that you can put on the buddy or club, and then it tracks by GPS into your smartphone how far the clubs went, and then I would get back and I get all my data after a few rounds, and be like, man, it’s like, my distances aren’t – it’s interesting; there’s a little bit of an ego thing again there, like man, I’m not hitting as far as I can, but when you put a little bit of logic into it and check your ego there, just know that the on-course conditions are just not going to be the same probably as real-life on-course conditions.
So, those are a few main keys I would just point out to check if you’re coming up short with your irons. Just to recap again, play for your average shotgun dispersion, aim your dispersion and play for your average shot. Don’t play for your best shot. Check your ego a little bit, and then even if you have your distances already set from the range or from indoors, or from a launch monitor, knock a few yards off that for the numbers that you use on the course, and then hopefully, that’ll help you a little bit with this issue of coming up short with your irons on the green, so give those things a try, put them into play, and hopefully, you’ll find yourself being [0:07:45] a little bit more consistent.
A few highlights of the fun round with Steve Thom a couple weeks ago…shorter swings keeping the ball under the wind, great bunker shots, etc. Mine that was plugged in the wall of the bunker face we didn’t even think would come out much less clear the lip and get close.
If you are facing the situation of the bunker where the ball is above your feet, then I’ve got a couple tips here that can hopefully help you play those a little bit better.
The first, since that ball is above your feet a little bit and the ball is going to be closer to you, you want to choke up just a little bit. Now, with a single length irons here, with the sterling irons in particular, these are 36 ½ inches, roughly for eight-iron length and 37 for seven-iron length, and the difference between that and a normal wedge is it depends on which wedge you use, but kind of between 35 and 36, so you are really only talking about just a small amount, just an inch. So, just to go from single length to regular or from regular hearings to single length irons, you want to choke up a little bit anyway, but then when this ball is on the slope like this and it’s even a little bit closer to you, you want to maybe choke up a little bit even more. How much you choke up, it depends a little bit on how high the ball is up on the slope, so I guess the closer it is, the more you want to choke up and the farther down at it, then the farther away it is from you, and the closer it is to your normal to normal flat ball position, the less you want to choke up. So, there is no real role as far as how much to do it, just kind of gauge it so that where you can stand comfortably and you are not punched or you are not reaching excessively to get to the ball, so that is the first thing, just choke up a little bit.
The second thing is to be mindful of the lie angle, and the lie angle is this angle here between the shaft and hosel, and the bottom of the clubface, and why that is really important is that when the club comes through impact like this squarely, the clubface is pointed, say where you wanted to go, where you want the ball to start and that’s an important thing to know, is that the ball will primarily start where the clubface is pointed at impact. So, in a situation where the ball is on the slope like this and up the slope, and the club is going to be more up like this, it can look as though the clubface is square like this, square to or perpendicular to your target line where you want it to go, but because you are getting it up the slope, the clubface is actually pointed to the left. So, you have to be mindful of where the clubface is pointing, not necessarily the leading edge there or the grooves, but just the 3-D flatness of this clubface, where is that pointed in space? So, the more up the slope you go, in particular with a wedge like this, the more it’s going to point to the left of your target for a right-hander. So, with that, you have to aim sufficiently to the right to get that clubface two point where you want the ball to start out at. So, if you’re up on the slope like this, you may have to aim almost this much. It is quite a bit. It really just kind of depends on how steep the slope is, how far up the slope of the ball is, which wedge you’re going to use our which club you’re going to use, the more aloft that you have on the club, the more the lie angle of facts – comes into play on a shot like this. So, just use your imagination and you won’t have the advantage of having a little stick like this on your club, but just try and picture where you think the clubface is pointed, and then adjust yourself accordingly so that when you come back in the impact and are hitting the bunker shot, that the ball will start out on the line that you want it. So really, those are the two main things I would say as far as tips on how to play those. Just choke up a little bit is the first thing, and then the second thing – and choke up a little more or less depending on how much up the slope it is, and then second, just be mindful of the lie angle, the effective lie angle and where the clubface is painting because where that clubface is pointing is where the ball is going to start out at primarily when you are coming back to impact with that club in that position, so put those things into practice, give those things a try in the bunkers, and hopefully, you will be playing those shots a little bit more effectively.
If you’ve heard about the flop shot around the green and you want to learn how to play that or if you just need to have a shot in your bag that maybe goes a little bit higher incomes down a little bed steeper with a smaller amount of space, then this video here is going to help you – hopefully help you, teach you how to play that shot.
So, the first thing I would say when playing the shot is find your ball around the green and wherever the ball – check the lie of the ball, so if the ball is – say, there’s a bunch of grassy here, and then this ball is sitting way down in here, you can barely see it, there’s just a ton of grass and stuff around here, this type of shot is not going to be a candidate for a flop shot to be able to hit it. You needed to be up in the rough a little bit so that you can get the club underneath there and then pop it up. You need a little bit of space in there or you can also hit it from a fairway lie, like a really tight lie like this. So, that would be the first thing I would say, is just to check the lie of the ball in the grass or wherever it is to know whether or not it can do [0:01:39] hit that shot, so that is the first thing I would say.
Next is the wedge selection. So, typically, people will think of playing a flop shot with their highest lofted club. With the sterling irons, we have a 60° lob wedge, so most people will think like, oh, let me go to the lob wedge, that’s the club I’m going to hit it with, but that may not be the best wedge for the flop shot depending on the condition. So, if that’ll give you a couple of situations here – so if the ball is sitting down a little bit in the rough and you need to get into some grass here but you don’t want it to dig into the grass and get stuck in the grass, you needed to come through a little bed, then the sand wedges probably going to be a little bit better because there is a couple important parts to the wedge here, so this first part, as you come down the club face here to the pointy part, this is the leading edge where the digger, and then as you come around the bottom, there is a curvy part here called the bounce or the skipper. So, how those to come into play here with this type of shot is if you have the club square or have some shaft lean or something, then this leading edge can really dig into the ground, and then if you open the club face a little bit, then this bounce is exposed in this is going to keep the club from digging in a little bit. So, and the situation we have here where we want to hit a flop shot and we are in some thick rough here, and there are some grass and the way, you probably want to pick the sand wedge because with the sterling irons, the sand wedge is the one that has the most bounce on it; it has the most amount of this stuff on at, and that’s pretty well going to be the same with most wedges, also the same wages probably going to be one of the most bounce and you need Here because you’re probably going to want to open the club face here so that when you go down into the rough and get it, it doesn’t grab and just hold and slow down the club face before it gets to the ball. This bounce kind of keeps it from grabbing and lets you get through the rough with that open club face to be able to hit it, so that is a situation where you’d want to pick a sand wedge for a flop shot. A situation where you might want to take a lob wedge is more if you have that tight lie situation so if you have the type lie like this where there is not a lot of room there, then when you open the club face here, you want – let me back up and say this, rephrase this a little bit, from a tight lie, it takes a certain type of wedge grind so the grind means how this sole and bounce here is like literally grinded down, so in the case of our sand wedge and lob wedge here with our sterling irons, what we did was we gave this a zero bounce heel grind. So, when you open up the club face here, there is literally no bounce on this heel part, here is where you open it up, the club still will sit down and you can get under it, so when we’re talking about here, the tight lie flop shot, you need a wedge like in both of our sterling irons and our sterling irons sand wedge and sterling irons lob wedge have this zero bounce grind on the heel here. In other wedge manufacturers, a lot of them will have different grinds as well, so get one that has some of the bounce shave it off here on the heel, and so that will allow you when you open it, open the clubface, that’s the club set down a little bit so that you can add loft, so when you have the club normal here, it is like this much loft, and then when you open it, it gets more loft, but when you – with this as your bounce grind here, still going to sit down, so that when you are talking about a tight lie here, you can still hit a flop shot and get under it without that – now, if you didn’t have that zero bounce heel grind and that bounce was there, then the club would sit up more like this, and then the bounce would hit off the ground, and it would just raised to the club face here to hide to be able to get under it. So, without a certain type of wedge grind or design built into the club, a flop shot basically, I was going to say won’t work, probably won’t work with some clubs from a tight lie, so you need a certain type of wedge to be able to do that. So, with the sterling irons, you are all taken care of there with the sand wedge and the lob wedge so you can play that shot.
So, the next thing is, I mentioned that you want to open the club face to hit the flop shot because of this here, I have a sand wedge, haven’t been from 55 to 57, so you got 57° of loft there – oh, sorry, actually, this is the lob wedge, so this is 60, this one here, and so we have 60° of loft here, and if you wanted it higher, hit this flop shot, then you open the clubface, and it makes the loft go higher, so wherever the clubface is pointed at impact, this is an important thing to understand about golf, wherever the clubface is pointed at impact is primarily where the ball is going to start, so if you want to hit it higher, you have to open the clubface did it higher. However, what you have to keep in mind is the lie angle, so when you are hitting here like this and you are coming through, then if your club is upright, the clubface points flat, if it’s flat, the clubface goes to the right, so similarly, when you open the clubface, the… Let’s see, when I open the clubface here, oh, it points out to the right – sorry, I didn’t get my spacing right there, so when you open the clubface, the club actually points out to the right. See, you have to, on this shot, you have to either squat down a little bit or do something to basically lower, open the clubface, clubface points to the right there, and then you have to lower the handle by either lowering yourself or squatting down a little bit, so that clubface is pointed right at your target where you want it to go. So, mind where the face is pointed when you open the clubface, and the more you – and so, there it is square, and the more you open it up, though more points to the right, so you just kind of have to eyeball it and visualize where this face is pointing because you are not going to have this little stick on here when you are hitting this shot, so the more you open up, the more you have the lean of the shaft down to get it to be straight again and that can look a little funny, say where you are – how can I do this so that you can see it here? When you look down at the clubface here, it can look like it is square when you set up normally, and then when you open the clubface, it looks with all the groove lines here and the leading edge here, it looks like it’s pointing way out here so that can be a little bit confusing to your mind and brain at first when you first see this because then you are like, oh my gosh, I’m a right-hander here, and they opened up the clubface and it just looks like it’s going to go way right, but that is where you got to keep in mind that it doesn’t matter so much the leading edge or these score lines where it looks like in that regard where the clubface is pointing. It is more of this lie angle here, so open the clubface, and then lower yourself, lower the handle so that he gets to a point where it is straight, and then you just got to keep that in mind and just kind of eyeball it. There’s no other way to do it other than that, you just kind of see like, okay, it looks a little left here, it looks a little right here, okay, that looks about right, I got to squat down a little bit, maybe lean up a little bit – okay, right there, the face is open, it looks like it’s pointing to the right, but the actual important part, the clubface looks like it’s pointed to where I want to hit it, so now, I can swing, and so now, with the swing here, the tip I have here for you with that is to swing smooth and just swing smooth – swing smooth? And why that is important is because when you open the clubface here like this, so normally, you have this much clubface to deal with, when you open it, all of a sudden, there’s a lot less space to be able to hit the ball, so you have to be really, really precise with the strike when you are hitting this shot. So, it’s super, super important to hit these shots smoothly. You can take a long swing but just be super smooth, and I’ll go back to this – I’ll bring out this tetherball analogy again that I’ve used on the channel here. So, with a tetherball, the ball is coming around the same point in space every time, but if you put a little bit of tension in that swing, then the ball is going to disrupt the flow of that and it’s not going to come around the same point in space, so you got to be super smooth when you are swinging and not slow or not guiding or not deliberate, but just be smooth, and you can swing a little fast at it or make a longer swing with it, but just make sure that you are really, really smooth, and the generally, I would say to try and keep your head fairly still so it doesn’t have to be perfectly still, but if you are trying to hit a flop shot and you are going like this while you are swinging, it’s going to be really hard to get the position needed to get that strike consistently on the ball so just generally pretty stable, try not to move your head around too much until you once you hit the ball, then of course, you can move and come up out and up, but general head still, swing smooth, and that should hopefully be able to hopefully hit the flop shot better, so hit the flop shot, so those are the things I would say as far as hitting a flop shot.
To recap here, check the lie, make sure it’s a type of lie where you can hit a flop shot, and once you determine that it is, then pick out the right wedge for it, pick out either the sand wedge or the lob wedge, you could even hit a flop shot if you want with a gap wedge for a pitching wedge, or nine-iron or any other are your if it’s got the right design on it. Once you pick out the right wedge for their shot at hand, then open the clubface, and then when you open the clubface, the more you open it, the more you need to lower yourself, lower the handle so that that clubface is pointing – it doesn’t matter so much when you are setting up but as long as you are getting back to that point, I think it helps to set up there so that you know like, okay, this is where we are going to come back, not necessary but I think it helps. So, open the clubface, mind of the lie angle, keep your head pretty still and still swing really smooth with it because you got to be super, super precise with that strike and generally, I would say because of that, it is a high risk shot, so use it accordingly, I guess or use it with caution, so know that there is a chance that – it’s a high risk shot, so just be aware of that, and that don’t use it I guess unless you are willing to take the risk that comes with that, so that’s what I would say about hitting flop shots around the green, give those things a try and put them into practice, and hopefully, you will be hitting some amazing flop shots, moonballs around the green.
A lot of you have been asking about The Open qualifying.
I had a bit of a tough break. Woke up the morning of the qualifier with some allergic reaction and my left eye was half swollen shut. I tried to play anyway. Missed the cut but I did make an eagle (345-yard drive and 6-iron to inches) and made The Open website anyway!
If you’re looking to be a little bit better with your distance control and your pitching with your sterling irons single length irons or your irons and wedges in general, then I’ve got a few things here to share with you that can hopefully help you improve your distance control.
So, the first thing is to check your lofts, so the equipment thing here, and make sure that there’s a nice, even spread that’s going to give you the distance capping that you want, and/or that works for you and your style of play. So, for example, with the sterling irons here, we have five-degree gaps, [0:00:45] pitch is 45, the other gap is 50 to this end, 55 to the lob, 60, so there’s five degrees, a nice, even spread there so that’s going to help with the distance capping. Me personally, I actually go up to six. I don’t use the lob wedge; I like to have an extra club at the other end of the bag for longer approaches, and I bend my gap wedge and sandwich up, so I go 45, 51, 57, and generally, I don’t really like lofts over 57 or 58 personally. It doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t play a 60 or a 62, or 64, whatever you want – it just suits my style of play, my style of game. So, you can have six-degree gaps, five-degree gaps as these are designed, or even go with four-degree gaps, whatever you want, just get your gapping down and get it in a way that suits your style of pitching, suits your game, basically. So, that’s the first thing I would say, is just the equipment lofts, the lofts, and equipment check here.
And then, next, I would say to check your contact and contact is super important, and with sterling irons here, we’ve designed the clubhead to have the sweet spot right in the center from a left to right standpoint here. Some wedges are made with the sweet spots out more towards the toe. Some irons have the sweet spots more towards the heel. We’ve designed ours to be right in the center there, and that doesn’t mean you necessarily have to hit the center. Sometimes, with pitching, you probably want to be a little bit lower on a clubface because you get a little bit more spin, but the important thing is just that you’re striking it consistently in the same spot on the face because if you miss the sweet spot or – well, the sweet spot is going to have the most amount of ball speed, the most amount of energy transfer from club to ball – the further out you get from the sweet spot there, then the more ball speed that you can lose, so it’s super important to whether you’re striking the sweet spot or a little bit low, or wherever you want to be hitting that you’re consistently hitting the same spot as often and as closely, and as tightly of a strike dispersion as you can.
So, to work on that, I’ve got a couple little drills here. Get some Dr. Scholl’s OdorX Foot Powder Spray or some other kind of foot powder spray, or a kid’s chalk spray, some kind of little spray that you can spray on the clubface, wipes off easily with a towel, and the little thin film that’s going across the face there, when you hit balls with it, it’s going to leave imprints on the clubface with where your strike is, so you can hit five, ten balls or something and just kind of see what your strike pattern is. If you’re pretty consistently on the same point in space, then you’re probably okay and you probably don’t need to be watching this video because your strike is good, but if your strike is a little bit inconsistent, then that could certainly be something you can work on, so just get a bucket of balls, get your foot powder spray or whatever spray you’re using, and just practice on the bucket of balls, practice improving your strike, and you don’t have to necessarily think too much about how to do it, just kind of let yourself finetune, let yourself adjust and don’t overthink it, and just try to improve your strike there.
A couple things that can help with that are one, I would say to use the air blow or humming drill trick – drill, I guess, whatever you want to call it. So, either hum while you’re swinging or just blow some air out through your nose and mouth such that you can sense it, but other people, if you don’t want to have someone hear you humming, you can just blow air out, and watch for the flow, you want the flow to be smooth, ideally. So, [humming] when you’re swinging, but if it goes [humming], then you’ve got a little bit of tension that you can work out of your swing, and why that’s important is because think of a tetherball going around a maypole, if there’s no rigidity in the rope there, the ball is going to be coming around the same point in space every time, but if you have a little bit of tension and you’re shortening your work during the time that it’s going around, then it’s going to affect where it’s coming around every time; it’s not going to come around the same point in space, and you got not much room to work with here to have a good strike and again, you want that consistent strike so you get the same ball speed. So, being smooth, being tension-free, being relaxed, not necessarily being slow or guiding it, but just watching the tension that you have in your swing can help the club come around in the same point in space. That’s one thing that can help you out.
And then also, what you might do from a technical standpoint, you’ll watch the amount of shaft lean that you have, try and come in a little bit more shaft vertical in picks, in your sweep, or collect the ball rather than hitting down on it and taking a divot, if you’re hitting down on it, especially with the shaft leaning forward like this, this leaning edge can really grab into the ground, so if you’re coming through a little bit more shaft vertical, the bounce, the bottom part of the club there is exposed a little bit more, so it kind of almost – it doesn’t prevent but it decreases the amount of dig that it’s going to have if you do catch it a little bit fat. So, being shaft vertical can help give you a little bit more forgiveness there so you’re not catching them fat on occasion or if you do catch them fat, your distance control is going to be a little bit better because the club is still going to get through there, and then picking or sweeping, or collecting the ball is going to help as well because again, you’re minimizing the chance of you hitting the ground which can really affect your distance control and also when you are picking or sweeping it, you’re going to get a little bit lower strike on the face rather than in the center or a little bit higher, it might be a little bit lower, and we won’t get into vertical gear affect in this video, but it’s going to give you a little bit more spin which is something that a lot of people want more in their pitches, so that’s just kind of a nice by-product there. So, that’s another thing I would say.
And then, I should have mentioned the clock drill. So, it’s common in teaching or in the instruction world to, if you imagine the face on view of yourself like this, and then you swing, and then wherever your lead arm goes to, so say in a clock, this is going to be going to 9:00, this is going to be going to like, 10:30, this is like, 7:30-ish, and I’m not talking about being this or like, perfect here, but you get the idea. There’s a certain amount of distance you want to take the club back in your back swing and then have it come through in the same amount, so if you go to 10:30 over here, you go to 10:30 over here, and you measure the distance with each of your wedges for, say a 7:30, a 9:00, and a 10:30 shot, so that gives you some decent distances or an idea of distances. Generally speaking, the 9:00 ones are, at least in the testing that I’ve seen, are going to be the ones that are the most accurate, not as much as the 7:30 and the 10:30s, the 9:00s are pretty good, so you’re going over here to over here with your different wedges. However, I think that’s good to give you a general sense and it’s okay if you play by number, and I used to play by number, but I actually found out that I’m a little bit better playing instinctively, and when you think about other sports, if you’re throwing a baseball, you don’t think to target, you don’t think about like, “Okay, when I take it back this far and throw it this way, it’s going to go this distance. I take it back this far and come all the way through, it’s going to go this distance.” I think in baseball, you just kind of look at your target and then you react. I think that pitching distance control is a little bit better when you’re using your instincts, and I say this because like when I used to do the clock drills, those worked okay in practice, and when I sat there and hit ball after ball, after ball, like I would be hitting the same distance, same distance, same distance, and then I get on the course and/or particularly this one time, I played in the Tusker Kenya Open, a challenge tour event in Kenya, and it was the country’s open basically, a big televised event, a lot of galleries around, so I had some nerves going there, and then I hit a nice, big drive, and then I had a pitch, maybe a 60-yard pitch in the back pin. I’m like, okay, that’s the shot, and I’ll do that with my wedge but I had some adrenalin going there, and then I just flew out way over the green and I make a double bogey when I had just a simple pitch there. So, I had a few of those instances, and I guess that’s a little bit more about emotional control and mental control there, but it got me looking more at playing pitches by instinct versus a clock system. I think a clock system or just a half swing to half swing, so you don’t have a think about a clock, but if you want to think a half to half, that kind of thing, that can help too, but that can get you started, but I think personally, as you become a better player, doing those by instinct is a little bit better, so there’s a drill that you can do for that called the all-clubs, all-flags drill, and basically, the idea is you go to every flag on your driving range and you hit every club to it, so you’re getting out of your mind of like, what the distance is and playing by number, and you’re playing more by instinct. That’s more for irons, I guess, but similarly, you can do that with your wedges, and just pick like, oh, there’s a brown spot out there, I’m going to hit my pitch [0:12:23] to that, and then you hit one there and then you switch clubs and you grab your sand wedge into the same spot, and then you pick, there’s a little thing over here and you hit to that spot and then you go over to this spot and switch clubs and hit it to there, so you just practice your instincts and just let yourself take it back as far as you need to, and then come through, and like other sports where you’re throwing a football, throwing a baseball, kicking a soccer ball, just react to that instinct and the instincts, and your gut is like, really good on that if you learn to trust yourself when you play pitches like that. So, personally, I think that’s a little bit better than a clock type system.
But, I think that’s all for that. Just to recap here, make sure that the lofts on your wedges are gapped how you want them, and then make sure that your contact is consistent, so use the foot powder spray or chalk powder spray to make sure that you’re making consistent contact, and then to help with that, watch the amount of tension in your swing, use the air blow or the humming trick, and then from a technical standpoint, watch the shaft lean, be a little bit more shaft vertical, sweep or pick, or collect the ball, all those things are going to give you a little bit more forgiveness as far as your strike goes, and help you be a little bit more consistent with your strike which is going to help you with better distance control, and then you can either start out with the clock drill if you’re a person that plays by number, if you’re a very number-type person or if you’re a little bit maybe more artistic and personal, I think that’s a little bit better, practice playing those more instinctually with this all-clubs, all-flags drill.
So, put all those things together, give those things a try, and hopefully, those things can help you improve your distance control with your pitching, and just making a better [0:14:32] in general with your sterling irons or whatever wedges you’re using.